All Clammed Up

What draws people into The Mansion Clam House is surely its rare, enviable quality: authenticity.

The red ramshackle building (oddly, more of a shack than a mansion) looks like it's sat on the side of the river for decades, battered by wind and salt. It's easy to imagine fishermen docking right out front and unloading the day's catch just hours before dinner. This ambiance is the Clam House's biggest asset.

The inside is consistent with the exterior. Predictably, it's filled with fishing netting and vintage black-and-white photos of sailing vessels and trophy fish. Faux sharks and marlin hang on the walls above the black wainscoting. One side of the room hosts the dark, cozy bar – the most inviting space in the restaurant.

I wanted to love the food as much as I did the room. And I really tried. The fish and chips ($21) was a solid entrée. The cod filet is dipped in their original beer batter and fried to a nice, crispy finish. Served alongside a big pile of standard-issue fries or thin-battered onion rings, it's a fry-fest of a meal. And a decent one.

The Saugatuck Filet ($19) wasn't bad, either. The steak was served in three thin medallions, and topped with tomatoes and fresh mozzarella. (That's right, hot steak, cold tomatoes.) It was an entrée and salad in one. Unfortunately, it didn't work. Tomato, basil and mozzarella is a dish best savored in warm summer months, unless you've got top-quality produce coming in from Chile. The Clam House, unfortunately, doesn't. The filet — which was a decent, tender cut of beef — was dragged down by the flavorless produce and spongy mozzarella sitting atop it. In each corner of the square plate, the chef arranged a cluster of steamed broccoli, carrot, zucchini and bell pepper, which reminded me of my grandmother's artistic styling.

But then, hallelujah, the salmon arrived. One of this week's Monday-Thursday $19 specials, the generous portion of Atlantic salmon was an affirmation of everything I wanted the Clam Shack –er Mansion to be. The filet was seared to form a crisp, caramelized crust but was moist and tender inside. This tasted like fish just in off the boat. This, too, was served with the rather boring vegetable assortment.

Rather than sitting down to a relatively expensive meal, your best bet might be to sidle up to the bar, order a pint of beer and try out the bar special of the night. The fish tacos ($10) featured a spicy mahi mahi, paired with cheese and avocado and wrapped in crispy tortillas. Smothered in spicy verde sauce, the tacos tended to sog up quickly, but if you keep up a decent pace, that shouldn't be a deal-breaker. The casual, cozy bar meal might just be The Mansion's strong suit.

The attitude of the wait staff is consistent with The Mansion's old-fashioned vibe. They're not in a huge rush and are happy to answer questions and accommodate requests. While they don't have a special kids' menu, The Mansion is willing to serve half portions of many of their pastas and fish entrees. (And they have fries, which is all most kids want when they eat out, anyway.)

Just like those steamed vegetables, the fare at The Mansion can't be labeled inventive or inspiring. But you know what you're going to get. Along with being authentic, The Mansion is comforting. These days, maybe that counts for a lot more than a clever reinterpretation of broccoli.

The Mansion Clam House is one of nearly 20 eateries featured in the Westport Weston Chamber of Commerce's Restaurant Week, which begins Feb. 28.

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The Mansion

541 Riverside Ave.

557-4851

www.mansionclamhouse.com

Hours:

Lunch

Mon-Fri: 11:30 am- 2:30 pm

Sat.: 12 pm - 3 pm

Dinner

Sun.-Thurs.: 5 pm- 9 pm

Fri. - Sat.: 5 pm- 10 pm