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Business & Tech

Bonda-licious

What could be Westport's best-kept secret.

Ask people what's the best restaurant in Westport, and the answers will be all the usual suspects: Acqua, Da Pietro's, Blue Lemon, maybe Manolo. But people always seem to forget about what might be the best of them all: Bonda.

If they even knew of it in the first place.

Bonda sits on a small lot on Charles Street, right across from the train station. It's not the best location, or the most noticeable. The building has a way of looking like it's always closed tight. And on most nights, it is. Bonda is open for dinner service on Friday and Saturday nights only. Its alter ego, Abbondonza, situated in the entryway of the restaurant, is a gourmet deli and take-out shop by day.

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Don't be fooled by the fact that you walk past lunch-size bags of chips and a deli case on the way in. The experience is spectacular. The décor at Bonda is calm and minimalist with enormous ceilings. Divided into two dining rooms, the larger front room is painted a soothing grayish green. The rear room (my least favorite) is orange. I've read that color enhances the appetite, but you won't need any help in that department here.

Instead of bread and butter, they brought to the table toasted rounds of an onion ficelle along with a mouth-watering caponata. They make their caponata with roasted tomato, celery, onion and bell pepper cooked down to a chutney-like consistency. Spooned on top of the little toasts, it was a perfect start to the meal along with a crisp chardonnay. Bonda has a small, but nicely-selected wine list. The bar is limited (just vodka, gin, rum and scotch) and they serve only two beers.

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Appetizers pose a dilemma. They all sounded so appealing on this menu – which changes often -- it's hard to choose just one. The Wedge of Iceberg Lettuce ($11) served with bacon, blue cheese and Russian dressings is a popular, retro favorite. But the Pan Seared Artichoke Hearts ($12) were tough to pass up. The hearts, happily blanketed in a layer of olive oil were sweet and tender. Alongside it were some slices of sopresatta and an addictive Spanish goat's milk cheese called Garotxa. I would have been more than happy to dine on this delicious antipasto plate all night.

Reluctantly, we moved on to the Seared Diver Sea Scallops ($12), which helped me to soon forget about the artichokes. Serving just two scallops was a little stingy of the chef, especially because the shellfish left behind a curried butternut squash sauce that didn't deserve to be thrown away. I debated asking for a spoon to scoop it up. Or a straw.

The best entrée of the night was the Grilled Maple-Brined Pork Chop ($26). It might have been a little autumnal for February, but it won me over just the same. The pork was juicy and tasted of maple and rosemary. Alongside it was a generous mound of a smoky butternut squash mashed with sage and a generous sprinkling of nutmeg. A few of the brussels sprouts that finished the plate were a little over-charred, but all in all, it was a thoroughly satisfying meal.

The Grilled New York Strip Steak ($36) was pleasing, as well. It was sauced with a cilantro pesto which makes for a rather oily plate. My dinner companion didn't mind it a bit, though. "Heavenly," was his concise summation. It might only have been improved with mashed potatoes instead of the Mexican-influenced poblano potato hash they served instead.

The Organic King Salmon ($28) was the surprising off-note of the night. Usually one of my favorite dishes at Bonda, the salmon was, well, bland and served over an uninteresting cauliflower-white bean puree that didn't do much to liven it up. The dish was only saved by the sweet broiled onions served atop the fish and the balsamic demi glace sprinkled around the perimeter of the plate.

Service is exemplary here. The staff treats every like long lost favorite patrons, even if it's your first visit. They're accommodating and attentive and refreshingly attitude-free. Although they don't have a children's menu, they're happy to prepare plain noodles with cheese or marinara for young diners. Substitutions and tweaks to the dishes don't throw them.

If only it weren't so expensive at Bonda, I'd like to be a real regular. For just two appetizers, three entrees and two glasses of wine, our bill came to $162. That bowl of buttered noodles for my five-year-old? Twelve smackers. Then again, they gave me a bag of Tate's chocolate chip cookies for free on the way out.

The deli alter ego has its advantages.

_____________________

Bonda

40 Charles Street

203/454-0840

www.bondarestaurant.com

Hours:

Fri. and Sat.: 6:30 pm to close

 

Major credit cards accepted. 

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